Thursday, March 21, 2024

Bed and Breakfast Cross-Country Ski Getaway at Lake Louise

Lake Louise is always a safe bet for a cross-country ski weekend from mid-November through early April. The Moraine Lake Road and the Great Divide Road are usually trackset by the third weekend of November (earlier if we're lucky) and you can safely plan a spring break trip to Lake Louise, knowing you'll still have great snow to ski on. (Often we're even able to ski at Louise for Easter!)

Spring Skiing on the Moraine Lake Road

Table of Contents for this Guide:

1. Early Season Skiing on the Moraine Lake Road

2. Early Season Skiing on the Great Divide Road

3. Our Favourite Ski Trails at Lake Louise

4. Other Ski Trails from the Great Divide Parking Lot

5. Skiing the Pipestone Trail Network at Lake Louise

6. Bed and Breakfast Accommodations at the Mountaineer Lodge

Lake Louise is a magical location for a family cross-country ski getaway

Family bonding is always special in the mountains

Cross-country Skiing on the Moraine Lake Road


The Moraine Lake Road is not plowed or open to vehicles in winter. Instead, it is usually groomed and track-set by mid-November and is a popular ski trail throughout the winter until early spring.

The Moraine Lake Road is double trackset for classic skiing (with a skating lane and an extra track for passing on the way up) for 9 km to a viewpoint where you can see the peaks that surround Moraine Lake. You can't see the lake, and proceeding past this point puts you into avalanche terrain. Regardless, it's a great workout even if you can't reach the lake, and it's an easy intermediate level trail with no big hills to climb or descend.

The road climbs ~ 275 metres at a gentle angle and you can usually climb/descend much of it by staying in the tracks. Newer skiers may feel more comfortable getting out of the tracks on a few steeper sections to descend.

Dogs are not allowed on this trail, but it is shared with hikers and cyclists on fat tire bikes who are requested to stay off the ski tracks.

Mount Temple as seen from the Moraine Lake Road 

Moraine Lake Road Parking:

There is a small parking lot at the entry to the Moraine Lake Road. If it's full, you can park above at Lake Louise and ski down the Upper Tramline Trail. This adds 2 km (one way) with just under 100 metres of height loss as you ski down the trail to the Moraine Lake Road. The challenge comes at the end of the ski when at least one person has to ski back up for the vehicle.

If you have children with you, send one adult back for the vehicle while a second adult skis the Lower Tramline Trail with the kids down to the old train station beside the Bow River. It's fun to get picked up at the bottom and it's downhill the entire distance for ~ 3 km.

** See the resources after the Great Divide section below for map and trail conditions links.

Early season skiing on the Moraine Lake Road 

Cross-country Skiing on the Great Divide Road


The Great Divide is also normally groomed and track-set by mid to late November and is another early-season favourite. Being an old road, it doesn't take much to cover up the pavement for skiing (as is the same with the Moraine Lake Road.)

Unlike the Moraine Lake Road, the Great Divide Road is not open to vehicle traffic at any time of the year. It's always a hiking, biking, or ski trail.

Ski from the trailhead at Lake Louise to the Divide where you'll see the big arch on the Alberta / British Columbia border. It is a 7 km ski to the Divide. You can also continue for an additional 3 km to the Lake O'Hara parking lot in Yoho National Park. 

The trail is double trackset for classic skiing with a skating lane. Expect to see dogsled teams along the one side of the trail and the occasional hiker.

The Great Divide Trail is relatively flat with one large hill down to the arch. The trail does trend downhill though as you head towards the BC border so you may feel like you're slowly climbing most of the way back. The trail loses 100 metres of height heading towards BC.

Dogs are not allowed on the trail (other than the ones that belong to the guided dog sled operation.)

The Great Divide on the AB / BC Border 

Ski the Great Divide Trail One-Way Alberta to BC:

If you have two vehicles, consider setting up a shuttle and skiing one-way from Lake Louise to the Lake O'Hara trailhead. You want to start at Lake Louise to enjoy more downhill skiing and less climbing.

Alternately, start at the Lake O'Hara parking lot and ski out and back as far as you want. This way it will definitely feel more downhill on the way back to the  car. (And as a bonus, it's usually easier to find parking on the BC side when the Lake Louise parking lot is full.)



Skiing this trail with children:

With young children, ski out and back from the Lake O'Hara parking lot to the arch at the AB border for a pleasant 6 km return ski. It's relatively flat and easy skiing. 

Another fun option with two adults and kids: Start out with the kids + a parent at Lake Louise and start skiing towards O'Hara one-way. The second adult will drive to the O'Hara parking lot and ski back to meet you. This allows the kids to ski the full 10 km distance one-way in the downhill direction. Parents can fight over who gets to ski with the kids. (I always win in our family.)


Early season skiing on the Great Divide Road

Resources:

Current Trail Conditions for Banff and Lake Louise

Parks Canada Trail Brochure for Lake Louise - scroll down to find the "Winter Trails at Lake Louise Brochure." You can pick up a hard copy at the Lake Louise Visitor Centre in the Village too.


Cross-country skiing at Lake Louise

Our Favourite Ski Trails at Lake Louise


Skiing the Tramline Trail 


This is the absolute BEST ski trail for families with young children because you can ski it one-way from the lake down to the village, and it's relatively all downhill. And except for one hill, it's all very gentle, double polling, stay in the tracks, skiing. You won't be descending crazy hills or having to snow plow for kilometres on end. The entire trail is basically rail grade and perfect for teaching kick and glide with a bit of gravity in your favor.

The trail is single trackset for classic skiing. Expect to see the occasional hiker on the trail as well but they are requested to stay off the ski tracks. Dogs are not allowed on the trail.

Our fav. scenic bridge on the Tramline Trail at Lake Louise


My family always skis this as a shuttle. My husband drops us off at the top and then drives down to the old train station parking lot in the Village. He skis up to meet us (getting a good workout) and we benefit from a family-friendly outing that my son loves.

Tramline is only 4.8 km one way and you'll lose 195 metres of height on your descent down to the Village. 

See the Tramline Trail on the Parks Canada Trail Brochure for Lake Louise- scroll down to find the "Winter Trails at Lake Louise" Brochure. You can pick up a hard copy at the Lake Louise Visitor Centre in the Village too.

And you'll want to have this map open as you look at the extensions below.


The only intermediate section on the Tramline Trail at Lake Louise


Tramline extensions for a longer outing:

  • Tramline + Lakeshore Loop - Start at the bottom and ski up to the lake for a good workout. Then turn around and enjoy coasting back down. While you're at the lake, add on the Lakeshore Loop for an additional 4 km distance. Tramline + Lakeshore Loop total distance would be approx. 14 km. - Note you'll have to remove your skis to walk from the top of the Tramline Trail over to the lakeshore trailhead, but it's a short walk.

  • Tramline + Fairview Loop - Start at the bottom and ski up to the lake. On your descent, ski around the Fairview Loop before hopping back on the Lower Tramline Trail. The Fairview Loop starts at the lake and ends on the Moraine Lake Road, a short distance up from the Tramline junction. (Check out the map before completing this one so you know where you're going.)  The Fairview Loop is ~ 6 km in distance and more intermediate in nature than the easier Tramline Trail. Total distance for both Tramline + Fairview Loop would be approximately 10 km. 

    Families not wanting to climb Tramline can start at the top, ski the Fairview Loop, and then one adult would descend Lower Tramline with the kids while the other adult climbs back up the lake. Meet up at the old train station. We've definitely done this and it's a lot of fun.

  • Tramline + Bow River Loop - Add on the Bow River Loop from the bottom of the Tramline Trail. The loop is ~ 7 km long and relatively flat, so it's a great extension. We always add on this loop after skiing down the Tramline Trail.

Once you get comfortable with the map and the trails around Lake Louise, you can continue adding trails to make bigger loops. Tramline from the bottom up to the lake + the Lake Louise Loop + the Fairview Loop + Lower Tramline down + the Bow River Loop would be a great ski day! 

Easy skiing on the Tramline Trail at Lake Louise 

Skiing The Bow River Loop


This is one of my favourite beginner-friendly trails for scenery, diversity, and general easy skiing with no hills to speak of.

The complete loop is ~ 7 km with shorter options possible. It is single trackset only which creates a more natural "classic" experience. There is no skating lane. Expect to meet up with the occasional hiker as well. 

** And this is one of the rare trails at Lake Louise where dogs are allowed (on leash.) **

We always start at the old train station parking lot in the Village where there's ample space for parking. From here we follow the trail along the village-side of the river (not crossing the bridge from the parking lot.) You have a couple of unpleasant road crossings near the Village Centre (take your skis off and carefully cross the roads) but then you get into the Lake Louise campground area where there are no more road crossings.


Powder day on the Bow River Loop 

Follow the river through the trailer campground until you reach two beautiful bridges at the far end. This is your turnaround spot as you ski back on the other side of the river, skiing through the tenting campground. One more road crossing returns you to the first section of trail (on the other side of the river.) Cross the final bridge and you're back at your car.

For a shorter ski, you can start in the campground, and just loop the campground (trail 10 on the map) or do the Bow River Loop on the east side (skipping the west side beyond the village.) If you check the trail brochure, you'll find that there are a couple of small parking lots in the campground for skiers. - And this would eliminate the need to cross any roads.

See the Bow River Loop on the Parks Canada Trail Brochure for Lake Louise- scroll down to find the "Winter Trails at Lake Louise" Brochure. You can pick up a hard copy at the Lake Louise Visitor Centre in the Village too.

Scenic bridge crossing on the Bow River Loop

There's no better scenery than a bluebird day on the Bow River Loop

Skiing The Lake Louise Loop


Skiing could not get any easier than this one! You'll be skiing straight across Lake Louise, on the frozen lake itself. There is absolutely no height gain, not a single hill, and you'll enjoy grooming with tracks to ski in.

The loop is classic trackset (no skating lane.) Follow the ski tracks across the lake until you reach Louise Falls, a beautiful set of frozen waterfalls, approximately 2 km down the lake. There is also a snowshoe trail that crosses the lake but the two trails should be separate.

Skiing across frozen Lake Louise is high on scenery and easy for novice skiers

For your return trip, either retrace your steps and ski back across the lake, or climb up to the forested trail above the lake to complete a 4 km loop. The forest trail starts by the waterfall.

The forest trail is not overly technical,  but it is narrower than the wide open lake. Regardless, it is definitely considered a beginner trail.

Save this outing for a sunny day for the best experience! And to extend your outing, bring sleds and skates for the Lake Louise skating rink and sledding hill (both located at the lakeshore.)

** Dogs are allowed on this loop (on leash.) **

Frozen Louise Falls at the end of the lake

Skiing The Fairview Loop 


This is a more intermediate trail and you'll definitely have to be comfortable at descending a few steep twisty hills. The reward is beautiful meadows that you'll traverse through. One year we even found a sofa built out of snow in the middle of one meadow.

The Fairview Trail traverses beautiful meadows 

The full loop is 7.5 km if you start at the lake, ski the Fairview Trail to the Moraine Lake Road, ski down the road back to the beginning, and then climb the Upper Tramline Trail back to Lake Louise. There is ~150 metres of climbing overall. 

The loop is best done counter clockwise so that you climb the Tramline Trail at the end. This allows you to enjoy the steepest hills on the Fairview Trail in the downhill direction. 

The Fairview Trail is double trackset for classic skiing. Dogs are not allowed on the trail. And you should not see hikers on the trail. This is a ski-only trail.

When we ski the trail as a family, my son and I continue down the Lower Tramline Trail to the Village rather than climbing back to the lake at the end. My husband climbs the Upper Tramline Trail to get the vehicle, and then meets us at the Village. 

See the Fairview Loop on the Parks Canada Trail Brochure for Lake Louise - scroll down to find the "Winter Trails at Lake Louise" Brochure. You can pick up a hard copy at the Lake Louise Visitor Centre in the Village too.

"Snowfa" in the middle of the Fairview Trail

Other Ski Trails from the Great Divide Parking Lot


If you've parked at the Great Divide Trailhead at Lake Louise, there are a few options for additional loops you can ski.

Lower Telemark Trail - As per the Parks Canada trail description: "Park at Great Divide trailhead, ski 700 metres, and turn right at the #8 trail sign. After 4.0 km of twists and turns, exit back onto the Great Divide trail, and turn left to return to your vehicle." The full loop will be approx. 8 km. 

This is an easy beginner-friendly trail. It is double trackset for classic skiing, is a ski-only trail, and dogs are not allowed.

Beautiful skiing near the Great Divide along Upper Telemark and Peyto

Upper Telemark and Peyto - Starting at the Great Divide, ski 700 metres on the groomed road until you come to the junction with both the Lower and Upper Telemark Trails. Turn left and follow trail # 7 up to the lake. It's easiest to take the "green" bypass trail up.

The trail ends by the Chateau if you want to do a lap around the Lake Louise Loop.

Starting up the Upper Telemark Trail from the Chateau Lake Louise

On the way down, the trail is divided into green, blue, and black sections. We always descend the black section but it is very steep with twisty winding hills. The Upper Telemark Trail is also a narrow trail (even though it is double trackset) so beginners will find the hills intimidating.

Take whichever division of the Upper Telemark Trail you want to take back down towards the Divide Trail. Add on a short section of the Peyto Trail if you want heading west (left) for a longer ski back along the Great Divide. If you follow Peyto to the right, you'll end up back closer to the lake and nowhere near your car.

See the Great Divide Trails on the Parks Canada Trail Brochure for Lake Louise - scroll down to find the "Winter Trails at Lake Louise" Brochure. You can pick up a hard copy at the Lake Louise Visitor Centre in the Village too.

Starting the descent down the Upper Telemark Trail where snow plow skills are imperative


Skiing the Pipestone Trail Network at Lake Louise


The Pipestone Trail Network is located across the TransCanada Highway from the Village of Lake Louise. You can see it here on this Google Map link

There are several trails here but the largest loop is the Pipestone Loop, an intermediate 13 km loop that is very hilly and requires a strong ability to climb and descend hills. The loop is typically skied counter clockwise. 

The Pipestone Trail Network is great for intermediate skiers

For an easier loop start on the Pipestone Trail (#20) going counter clockwise and then turn off onto trail #22 (Drummond.) This relatively flat trail takes you to Pipestone Pond where you can connect to trail #21 (Hector) to return to the parking lot.

Drummond is 2.7 km one way and is a beginner-friendly trail. Hector is 3 km one way and is also beginner-friendly though it does descend 95 metres from Pipestone Pond back to the parking lot (so don't choose it as your first ever ski trail.)

One final trail that has proven useful for us on occasion is the beginner-friendly Merlin Trail (#23) which works as a good shortcut trail off the top of the Pipestone Loop, heading down towards Pipestone Pond. Merlin is 2.3 km and it descends gently from the top of the Pipestone Loop. Watch out for the old cabin along the trail.

All trails in this network are single trackset classic. There is no skating lane and the trails are designated for skiing only so you should not meet hikers. 

** Dogs are permitted on these trails (on leash.) **

See the Pipestone Trails on the Parks Canada Trail Brochure for Lake Louise - scroll down to find the "Winter Trails at Lake Louise" Brochure. You can pick up a hard copy at the Lake Louise Visitor Centre in the Village too.


Climbing skills are imperative for the intermediate Pipestone Loop 


Bed and Breakfast Accommodations at the Mountaineer Lodge


It's always hard finding affordable family lodging at Louise, but it's such a treat to stay in the area, skipping the 4 hours of driving round trip from Calgary. - and as a bonus, you get 2 days of skiing when you spend the weekend!

On our most recent visit, we stayed at the Mountaineer Lodge in an extremely comfortable Mountaineer Suite which had a separate bedroom with two queen beds, a cozy living room complete with sofa and chairs, and came equipped with mini fridge, microwave, coffee maker, and a kettle! We could have happily stayed for several days.

Cozy Family Suite at the Mountaineer Lodge 

Free breakfasts included in every stay at the Mountaineer Lodge


The lodge has a variety of rooms and suites but all stays include:

  • A mini fridge + microwave in every room/suite

  • A free hot breakfast (waffles, eggs, bacon or sausages, hashbrowns, fruit and yogurt, cereals, and pastries) - and awesome coffee!!

  • Free Wi-Fi, free parking, and use of the lodge indoor hot tub. There's laundry facilities on site as well for longer stays.
Breakfast of champions before a big ski day!

No lounging on hotel beds when you have a suite!

It should be mentioned too that this lodge has some of the friendliest staff I've found at a resort including the housekeeping, breakfast staff, and front desk clerks!

You'll also enjoy super comfy beds and pillows, and extremely quiet rooms! - Seriously, we heard nothing from our neighbors or people in the hallways. (Just a few trains going by, but it's Lake Louise and the train goes through the village.)

Our private bedroom with separate living area!

We spent our weekend skiing the trails around the lake + village and appreciated the convenient location of the lodge. It was a short 2 minute drive to the lake, but you could access all trails around the village by just walking out the front door, skis or hiking boots in hand. 

For downhill skiers there is a convenient shuttle bus to the ski hill, and you'll be able to skip the 6am wake up call in Calgary! 

This is one of those hotels that quickly becomes a family favourite, and that you know you'll visit regularly.

We spent the day skiing around the Lake Louise trail system from our lodge

Additional Resources







Disclaimer: Our recent stay at the Mountaineer Lodge was hosted. As always, all opinions are my own and I wasn't paid to write this story.





Thursday, March 14, 2024

Plan a Ski Getaway to Panorama Mountain Resort (with affordable slopeside lodging at the Approach Hotel)

My family looks forward to our annual ski trips to Panorama Mountain Resort every winter, and it's always an added bonus when we can stay slopeside in the quaint mountain village, walking distance to chairlifts, restaurants, and the outdoor hot pools (largest slopeside pools in Canada!)

Plan a Ski Getaway to Panorama Mountain Resort in British Columbia


Introduction to Panorama Mountain Resort

Panorama Mountain Resort is located 20 minutes outside the Community of Invermere in the Columbia Valley. From Calgary, it is approximately a 3.5 hour drive across the border into British Columbia. We've found that we can easily make it to the resort Friday night for a quick ski weekend, and then make it home again Sunday in time for work the next day (Even if one of us is still riding the last chairlift at 4:00 that afternoon!) 

Enhance your stay with overnight accommodations in the village and experience why ski in/ski out vacations are the absolute BEST! Panorama is unique for ski resorts in the Canadian Rockies in that it has its own alpine village, complete with accommodations, restaurants, après ski activities, and nightlife.

Stay in one of the properties on the hill and you'll also receive access to Canada's largest slopeside hot pools! The pools are located in the Panorama Springs Lodge and are walking distance from everywhere in the Lower or Upper village (a small gondola connects the Lower and Upper Village and is free to use.)

Soak in Canada's largest slopeside hot pools at Panorama Mountain Resort 


Affordable Lodging at the Slopeside Approach Hotel 


Day trips to go skiing are easy to execute, but there’s nothing like an overnight ski getaway to really take in the full resort experience.

We just returned from a weekend at Panorama Mountain Resort where we stayed slopeside in the newly renovated Approach Hotel in the heart of the village.

From our hotel room we could look out our window to the main base chairlift (easy to load at 9am when you’re sleeping within sight of it) – and I could see the trailhead leading to the Nordic Centre for the afternoon cross-country skiing I wanted to enjoy.

Our room at the Approach was perfect for families with two bunk beds (singles over queen beds) and we took advantage of the breakfast package where we were treated to a delicious buffet in the Alto Kitchen & Bar restaurant next door. (see the breakfast buffet menu here)

We also appreciated the Fireside Café on the ground floor of our hotel where they make awesome breakfast sandwiches to go.

Stay at the Approach Hotel with a breakfast buffet package

Single over queen bunk beds in our hotel room at the Approach

Stays at the Approach give you easy access to a variety of restaurants in the upper village (I highly recommend the pizza at Alto for dinner,) and we enjoyed the short walk to reach the Panorama Springs hot pools, perfect for a soak at the end of a long ski day.

We enjoyed our comfortable lodging, we ate very well, and we took full advantage of our slopeside stay at Panorama.

My boys spent two days skiing incredible powder, riding the Monster X snow cat to access extreme terrain in the Taynton Bowl, and enjoying the best conditions Panorama has had this winter.

I managed to fit both downhill and cross country skiing into my weekend, and I’m pretty sure I was one of the last skiers on the hill Sunday after skiing for 7.5 hours, first to last chair (Have to fully use your lift ticket, right?)

First tracks after a slopeside stay at the Approach

Alto is a great choice for dinner after a day on the ski hill!


Staying at the Approach Hotel: know before you go:

"At over 100 rooms, this refuge is located at the heart of the resort, and is the first step in accessing the outdoors immediately. Boasting both breathtaking mountainside and resort side views, The Approach is literally seconds from the mountain’s primary lift access.
This is a refreshing re-visitation of the roots of mountain culture. The design speaks to economy and function. Unnecessary embellishment has been banished, and in the spirit of trailblazers, offers a celebration of the essential." - Panorama Mountain Resort

The Approach Hotel provides skiers with a "no frills" affordable slopeside basecamp that's high on convenience.

Rooms are simple with comfortable beds, in-suite bathrooms with showers, and a small television with a wide variety of channels. What you won't find however, is a mini fridge, microwave, fireplace, or sitting/living area (just beds to sit on.)

We stayed in a Twin Peaks Room which had two bunk beds (singles over queen beds) and which would fit up to 6 people, perfect for families with 3+ children or youth. 

Most other rooms have two queen beds unless you book the romantic Bluebird room (one king bed,) or the Approach Glades Loft room (Queen and twin bed with loft.)

There are no suites or kitchenettes at the Approach, so pack a cooler with you if you want to bring snacks, breakfast items, or ingredients to make your own lunches. - and remember if you plan to do any meal prep in your room, you'll also need to bring dishes, cutlery, etc.

Families who want a kitchen, dedicated living room, fireplace, or separate bedrooms may want to look at one of the condos or townhouses on the resort. 

Personally, for a short ski weekend, we had everything we needed at the Approach, and it was much more convenient than staying in a hotel in a neighboring town. We chose to splurge on restaurant meals rather than bringing supplies for eating in our room, and it was a nice treat.


Save money for the skiing with affordable lodging at the Approach Hotel

A Ski Resort for the Whole Family


We've been skiing at Panorama Mountain Resort for a few years now, and the biggest thing that continues to impress me is how easy it is to progress as a skier or snowboarder at this resort. Families can start on the magic carpets and the beginner platter lift, work up to four other beginner-friendly chair lifts, and then keep moving up the mountain towards the summit (where there's enough terrain to keep the whole family challenged for a lifetime of skiing or riding.)

Read more on progression from beginner to expert terrain in my previous blog post here:

Read: Magic Carpet to Monster at Panorama Mountain Resort 

This kid started on the magic carpet and is now shredding the double blacks!

On our most recent trip to Panorama, I happily spent the weekend racing down the groomers, and on Sunday, I skied down 10,000 vertical metres in a single day (more than the height of Mt. Everest from summit to sea level!) I did top to bottom laps all day adding up to 63 km total distance (which still amazes me!)

10,000 vertical metres of skiing is a very BIG ski day!!

My boys spent most of their two days hiking (or riding) out to the double black chutes in the Taynton Bowl where they got a backcountry experience fully within resort boundaries (patrolled and monitored for avalanche risk.)

While you can hike to all runs in the Taynton Bowl, guests at Panorama can also experience pay-per-ride cat skiing, buying individual rides on the resort's Monster X Snowcats which provide comfortable easy access to reach the far end of the Taynton bowl.

My husband and son love the backcountry skiing type experiences they get at Panorama and I feel good knowing the terrain has been checked and marked safe by the resort's avalanche control professionals.

Monster X access to the Taynton Bowl at Panorama

Not an "expert" skier? No worries! Take the kids to find the Secret Forest tree house off the Mile One chair (complete with a slide that's fun to navigate in ski boots,) spend an afternoon cruising around the mellow intermediate terrain in the Sun Bowl, or plan a "hut to hut" traverse around the mountain stopping at each of the on-mountain restaurants and cabins for snacks, a gourmet lunch, or hot drinks.

I like visiting the Summit Hut for a cup of coffee while I warm up after the three chairlifts you'll ride to reach the top of the mountain. And then there are several options for cruisy skiing back down to the base on groomed intermediate runs.

The Summit Hut serves hot food and drinks and is accessed via 3 chairlift rides!

Not a downhill skier at all? This is one resort where you'll find more than enough opportunities to entertain the entire family. Try fat biking around the village, rent snowshoes or cross-country skis for a tour of the resort Nordic trails, go for a walk along Toby Creek from the lower village, or spend an afternoon in the slopeside hot pools (included with all lodging options at Panorama.)

Visit the Greywolf Nordic Centre to rent fat bikes, cross-country skis, or snowshoes.

There's more to Panorama than downhill skiing!

Other recommended reading from previous trips to Panorama Mountain Resort:

Read: Family Guide to Panorama Mountain Resort 

Read: Find it ALL at Panorama Mountain Resort 

Hut hopping from the Greywolf Nordic Centre at Panorama 


Nordic Skiing at Panorama Mountain Resort

There are 20 km of groomed Nordic Trails at the resort for classic and skate skiing, and all of the trails are open to skiers with well behaved dogs on or off leash (with the purchase of a special pooch pass.)

And these are GOOD professional Nordic trails! This isn't a case of: "Ok, you Nordic skiers, we groomed you a cute little 3km loop around the ski resort."

The Nordic Trails are groomed daily, and we like skiing up to the Pentagon and Hale Huts in approximately 10 km round trip from the Greywolf Golf Course. 

The Pentagon Hut is a short ski, fat bike ride, or snowshoe from the Nordic Centre

You can purchase day passes for the Nordic trails at the Greywolf Golf Course which is the winter clubhouse for XC skiing, fat biking, and snowshoeing.

Visit the Panorama Mountain Resort website for more information on Nordic Skiing.

You can also rent skis if you don't have your own.

And for non-skiers, you can also try snowshoeing or fat biking on the Panorama multi-use trails (which also reach the Pentagon and Hale Huts.) - with rentals on site for both.

The trackset trails are reserved for XC skiing, but Panorama has six multi-use trails for fat biking and snowshoeing. These trails are usually groomed for easy walking and biking.

On our recent trip, I spent an afternoon cross-country skiing, and it was very convenient from our room at the Approach. I could even see the Valley Trail sign from my hotel window!

The Valley Trail is a multi-use trail, but it's groomed and trackset for skiing, so I was able to ski to the Nordic Centre from the main base area to access the dedicated ski trails. 

If you need to rent skis, you'll have to drive to the Nordic Centre, but if you bring your own, it's only a 1-km ski from the base area on the Valley Trail. Then you can purchase a trail pass when you arrive at the Greywolf Club House.

Visit the Nordic Pulse website to see trail conditions and the grooming report.

This multi-use trail connects the resort base with the Nordic Centre


Read more on winter activities at Panorama Mountain Resort here in my previous blog post:

Read: Panorama Mountain Resort (much more than downhill skiing)



Disclaimer: My family received complimentary skiing and accommodations on our recent stay at Panorama Mountain Resort.


Monday, February 12, 2024

Plan a Cross-Country Ski Getaway to Radium Hot Springs

Looking for a fun affordable winter ski getaway near Calgary? Radium Hot Springs has it ALL going on for a cross-country ski weekend with several different Nordic Centres and trail options nearby for every ability and skill level.

Radium Hot Springs has it ALL going on for cross-country ski getaways (Photo location: Nipika)

The Village of Radium Hot Springs is located in British Columbia, and is a 3-hour drive from Northwest Calgary via Kootenay National Park. It is easily reached Friday night for a short ski weekend or I recommend visiting for a long weekend if you really want to take advantage of the recreation opportunities available.

Below are the different options for skiing in the Columbia Valley with Radium hot Springs as your base camp. And if you scroll to the bottom, you'll find suggestions for accommodations. 

Also, further in this guide, I've provided suggestions for affordable one-night "power getaways" with two days of skiing and only one night of lodging required. (It's amazing how much skiing you can fit in to a short weekend.)

Nipika Mountain Resort is big on views with awesome Nordic ski trails


Skiing at Nipika Mountain Resort


Nipika Mountain Resort is located approximately 30 - 40 minutes north of Radium via Kootenay National Park and Settlers Road. We like to ski here on our drive back to Calgary, or it's a great day trip from Radium if you want to go to the hot springs afterwards.

"Nipika is a cross country skiing mecca with 50km of groomed trails. They are professionally groomed on a regular basis for both classic and skate skiing. The terrain ranges from beginner to expert and flows through treed areas, open spaces with mountain views, and alongside the Kootenay and Cross Rivers." - Nipika Mountain Resort

Skiing over the Natural Bridge at Nipika Mountain Resort 

And, if you have a dog, this is THE number one place you'll want to ski. The resort is very dog-friendly and well behaved dogs are allowed off leash on all trails.

If you don't have a dog, you'll still LOVE skiing here. Nipika is one of the best Nordic Centres we've skied at, and the trails are incredibly beautiful. We love skiing the north trails to the Natural Bridge, over to the Confluence Bridge, and back in a 12 km loop, visiting two warming huts along the way, both heated by wood burning stoves.

Note the Confluence bridge was not installed for the 2024 winter season. You can still ski to the river from either side, and cross the river using the Natural Bridge.

One of the warming huts at Nipika where you can start a fire and have lunch or snacks

Novice skiers will appreciate the easier south trails where the views are no less stunning. I like to ski the perimeter loop on this side for the viewpoints over the rivers. You'll also pass by one warming hut on this side which is a great place to have a snack or lunch break.

Trail fees apply to ski here and you can pay them when you arrive inside the main lodge. You can also rent skis, fat bikes, or snowshoes - and the resort maintains an extensive trail system with separate trails for all user groups. (And their fat bike trails are amazing if you want to try a new sport.)

You won't find beautiful ski trails like this too often!

Want to stay overnight? There are nine classic log cabins that sleep 4-13 people.  Guests also have access to a skating rink and sledding hill on site and receive complimentary trail fees.

Visit the Nipika website for trail conditions or follow them on social media for updates (You'll find them on both Facebook and Instagram.) - and they answer messages regularly if you're looking for overnight conditions.

Nipika has 9 cabins on site for ski getaways

Skiing at the Panorama Nordic Centre


Panorama Mountain Resort is a 30 minute drive from Radium via Invermere. You'll find parking outside the Nordic Centre at the Greywolf Golf Course. Inside the clubhouse you can pay your trail fees, get a map, and stock up on anything you might need from new gloves to ski wax. You can also rent skis and equipment.

And if you are visiting Panorama with a mixed group, you can access the Nordic ski trails from the main base area as well. The multi-use Valley Trail is groomed and trackset, and it starts from near the Toby Chair (Look for the big blue sign visible from the parking lot outside the Approach Hotel.)

The Valley Trail takes you from the main resort ski area to the Nordic Centre

Skiing under the Toby Chair to the Nordic Centre

"The Panorama Nordic Centre at Greywolf offers more than 20+ km of regularly groomed trails dedicated to cross-country skiing. Through forest and alongside Toby Creek, the cross-country specific trails provide an uncrowded experience in spectacular mountain scenery." - Panorama Nordic Centre

 
Starting from the golf course we like to ski up to the Hale Hut and back, an intermediate ski which visits two warming huts in approx. 7 km round trip. The Hale Hut is sometimes heated by a propane stove and makes for a great lunch spot. On warm days I like to eat outside on the beautiful covered deck.

Make sure you ask if the stove will be turned on at the Hale Hut before you start skiing on extremely cold days. I had to turn back once when I found out that the stove was broken on a -30 day. (On warm days it's not a big deal and you can still eat inside out of the wind.)

If you want to go further, ski the full Placer/Great Scott Trail out and back for approximately 18 km total distance.

The Hale Hut is a great place to warm up on cold days!

The Pentagon Hut is not heated, but offers a dry place to have lunch out of the wind

The trails are groomed daily and are great for both classic and skate skiing. Dogs are also allowed on all trails at Panorama, but you'll need to purchase a special $5 pooch pass if you want to ski with your pup.

Read the Dog use rules here if you plan to visit. 

There are also separate trails for hiking and fat biking (with fat bike and snowshoe rentals on site if you have non skiers with you.)

Ski trails do NOT allow foot or bike traffic and are for skiing only. Fortunately the multi use trails visit both huts, so you can meet up with non-skiers in your group at the huts.

There is a large multi-use trail network. Ski Trails do not allow foot traffic

Perfect grooming at Panorama 

Note that the ski trails at Panorama are not overly "novice-friendly" (in my opinion.) There is a large hill from the Nordic Centre that you'll have to ski down to reach the river, and then climb back up at the end. There's also a long climb involved to reach the Hale Hut.

This trail system is fabulous for intermediate skiers, but true beginners may want to try Nipika or try skiing on one of the Whiteways mentioned below.

Check the Nordic Pulse website for trail conditions.

And if you're looking for accommodations right at Panorama, check out the Approach Hotel which is conveniently located at the base area of the resort for both downhill or cross-country skiing. It's the perfect ski in/ski out basecamp.

Most trails at Panorama are quite hilly and best suited for intermediate skiers


Skiing on the Lake Lillian Whiteway and Junior Johnson Trail, Invermere


Invermere is a short 15 minute drive south of Radium, and there are a few options for skiing here.

The Toby Creek Nordic Club grooms and track sets several trails around the Columbia Valley including a loop on Lake Lillian outside Invermere and a loop on the Junior Johnson, a double track beginner mountain bike trail across the road from the lake.

Each loop is approximately 3 km in distance and you can ski both from the same parking lot. The Lake Lillian loop is 100% flat and great for novice skiers. The Junior Johnson Trail has a few short hills as the trail winds its way through the forest. 

The Junior Johnson loop is groomed and trackset for cross country skiing, and there is also a groomed loop for fat biking and hiking (without tracks.) We skied both loops when we were there for a total of about 5 km. 

Easy skiing on the Junior Johnson Loop outside Invermere

Users are requested to pay a $5 day use fee payable online here or in the cash box on the welcome sign.

There are no rentals available so bring your own equipment.

Check for conditions on the Nordic Pulse website.

I also like to check for updates on the Toby Creek Nordic Ski Club Facebook page before heading out here because the Columbia Valley often has warm spells in the winter, forcing the club to close access to the lake loop due to unsafe conditions. The Junior Johnson is also only groomed and trackset when there is enough snow.

The Panorama Nordic Centre is the place to ski when it's been too warm to safely ski on a lake.


Easy family skiing on the Lake Lillian Whiteway

Skiing on the Lake Windermere Whiteway, Invermere


The Toby Creek Nordic Club also grooms and track sets a large loop around Lake Windermere. It's another easy option for beginner skiers and the loop is 100% flat. The same trail fees apply as above, $5 per day, and dogs are allowed to join you while you ski on either Whiteway.

"In 2014 the Lake Windermere Whiteway was named the world’s longest skating trail by Guinness World Records. At over 30km in length, this multi-use trail offers ice-skating as well as groomed skate and classic cross-country ski trails.
The Whiteway provides winter sports enthusiasts an incredible facility, adding to the already abundant list of winter activities available in the stunning Columbia Valley. It offers 2 access points: one at Kinsmen beach in Invermere and one at Windermere Beach." - Toby Creek Nordic Club

I've personally never skied on this lake but I've ice skated the loop many times. Access to the lake is either from Kinsman Beach in Invermere or from the public beach in Windermere.

Check for conditions on the Nordic Pulse website. And as mentioned above with Lake Lillian, check the Toby Creek Nordic social media accounts too for updates because warm weather can close Lake Windermere too.


The Lake Windermere Whiteway offers ice skating and cross-country skiing in winter

Recommended Accommodations in Radium Hot Springs


On my recent trip to Radium Hot Springs, we stayed at the Prestige Radium Hot Springs Resort. We had a one bedroom suite with king bed in the main room, jetted tub, and a separate bedroom/living room with a pull out sofa.

We loved our suite with the extra space we got to enjoy as a family. My husband and I watched cheesy sitcoms on the TV from our bed while our son hid out in his own room playing games on his I-pad. (Win win for all.)

One bedroom suite at the Prestige Resort in Radium Hot Springs

And our son definitely wanted to try out the jetted tub, so he put on his swim suit and settled in for a taste of the luxury lifestyle he'll never know at home where he has to make do with a shower.

Aside from our very comfortable room, we enjoyed the location of the Prestige Resort on the main street of the village. We were able to walk to restaurants and coffee shops without having to drive anywhere, and the quiet streets are lovely for a walk around town looking for wild turkeys and the sheep herd.

Our suite at the Prestige had a separate bedroom / living room with pull out sofa

Amenities at the Prestige include:

  • A selection of rooms starting with simple two bed hotel style rooms all the way up to kitchenette suites or family and executive suites with a separate bedroom

  • There is a mini fridge in each room

  • Select dog-friendly rooms

  • A large swimming pool and hot tub

  • A fitness centre for guests over the age of 19

  • Elevation Massage and Spa on site

  • A business centre with a computer and printer (and there is free WiFi at the hotel)

  • Seasonal sports equipment and board games free to borrow

  • Conrad Kain's Kitchen and Grill Restaurant on site open 7 days a week from 7:30am - 11:00pm 

  • The Don Agave adults-only Cantina is also located on site featuring Mexican food and drinks - and last time I ate here, we were able to order food from the Cantina menu in the family restaurant.

Swimming pool and  hot tub in the Prestige Resort for unwinding after a day of skiing

One-Night Power Getaways to Radium Hot Springs 


This has seriously become one of my family's favourite things to do each winter.

We drive to Radium on Saturday, stopping to ski on the way, we stay overnight in an affordable motel or hotel in town (Expedia is great for finding a good deal,) and then we spend Sunday skiing before driving home.

We try to keep things affordable, and so I pack lunch for Saturday, and we also bring a small cooler with us so that we can have breakfast in our hotel room Sunday. We sometimes pre-make sandwiches for Sunday as well, and bring lots of snack items, so the only meal we have to purchase is dinner Saturday night.

For the skiing, we like to drive out via Yoho National Park so we can ski at Emerald Lake. Then we drive to Radium via Golden. It adds a bit of distance, but it's a great way to spend a day skiing the trails in Yoho without the 4+ hour round trip drive from Calgary.

Gorgeous Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park

Then on Sunday we usually ski at Nipika on our way back to Calgary, making a loop with Kootenay National Park.

And we definitely fit a trip to the hot springs in there somewhere (usually after we arrive Saturday.)

Without Yoho, you could also ski Nipika on Saturday, and then ski at Panorama on Sunday before returning home. There are so many options for a short one-night trip with two ski days.

The Confluence Bridge at Nipika is always fun to ski across

Read more about Winter Adventures in the Columbia Valley




Winter is a magical place to explore in the Columbia Valley


Disclaimer: We were hosted at the Prestige Resort on our recent trip to Radium Hot Springs. As always, all words and opinions are my own along with all photography used in this story.